Emma + Bullet Pudding

A springtime food-in-film review

May 13, 2024

Emma was the first “new” film I watched post-COVD-19 lockdown in April of 2020. Back when seeing streaming rental prices upwards of $20 was still a novel concept, my family and I plunged into watching the film with unadulterated passion.

Based on Jane Austen’s classic, directed by Autumn de Wilde and written for the screen by Eleanor Catton, Emma had to be more than just a good movie. To a version of myself pulverized by a pandemic, this movie had to be great.

And great it was. For me, it was love at first sight. From the comedy to the costumes, I adored the film. But I always had a nagging voice in the back of my head: Did I only love Emma because I watched it during lockdown?

I shuttered at the thought and promptly shoved it deep down inside — until recently when I finally mustered up the courage to give it a second screening.

I audibly gulped and, finally, hit play.1

Emma (2020) Film Review

Within moments — with one eye closed, bracing for the worse — I saw Bill Nighy hurl himself down the stairs, jumping over at least 4 steps, and breathed a sigh of relief.

My friends, I’m pleased to report Emma is even more delightful upon rewatch.

First and foremost, Emma is deeply funny. While the original novel always possessed classic Austenian heartfelt, inspiriting gaeity, 2020’s Emma models its part-romantic-comedy, part-screwball after Howard Hawks films like Bringing Up Baby and His Girl Friday (as De Wilde told The Hollywood Reporter.)

De Wilde’s perfect casting seals the deal, here: Anya Taylor-Joy as Emma shines brighter than ever, and Bill Nighy is ever a hoot. Mia Goth stepped triumphantly back into the spotlight as the gullible Harriet. Miranda Hart’s Miss Bates was exhaustively hilarious. Even the speechless servants’ and footmen’s performances had me cackling.

I also cannot complain about seeing Josh O’Connor in another period film! He may be making headlines this week for his shameless role in Challengers, but to me, his face screams hilariously-embarassed-British-man-of-yore, no?

The Food & Drink in Emma

When it comes to food featured in the film, the art department spared no expense. Cinephiles will note most of the film’s major plot points are underscored by food. From a post-wedding feast in the first act to multiple awkward afternoon teas, meals once again make for the perfect props for comedy actors. The nervous character’s tea saucer rattles as their hand quakes, the bored character can roll their eyes while taking a sip.

When Emma invites another family to her estate for dinner, food continues to be a vessel for comedy. When Emma probes her guests for intel on a man she is interested in, they are all too keen to talk about the “well-prepared custard” to indulge her. When served a tasty tart, the actors must yell at the top of their lungs to their near-deaf mother urging her to try it.

Later, when Josh O’Connor’s priest character reveals he has married another mere weeks after confessing his love for Emma, Bill Nighy’s dutiful father is so aghast he doesn’t move a muscle when a servant comes to take his cup away. As with most screwball comedy, it plays far funnier on the screen than I could ever describe.

A Game of Bullet Pudding?

Pictured above is a game of ‘bullet pudding,’ in which a group of Regency girls slice a “flour cake” one-by-one. The game’s goal? To avoid knocking the perfectly balanced coin off the top. The similarities to the “fill the cup” game that was recently popular on social media suggest we, as humans, have a peculiar affection for this type of contest.

In the scene, Harriet ends up toppling the coin and ends up with a face full of flour. While this game isn’t featured in the book, it was a parlor game Austen likely witnessed her nieces play. Here, playing with food encapsulates the spirit of the film. Emma is such an endearing, light but heartfelt story, and at last, the performances and food of the world match the original book’s mood.

Excellently Contrived, Nothing Wanting

At one point, a character calls a ball dinner “Excellently contrived, nothing wanting.” I could say the same for this film. Brava to Autumn De Wilde’s feature film debut!